Our day began with breakfast at 6:30. Sharlene, our host at Aunt Edna's Boarding House B&B, graciously served us an early breakfast in order that we could catch the 7:30 ferry to the mainland. Thursday is maintenance day for the Pilley's Island - Little Bay Islands ferry so the staff operates the ferry only three times that day. Whether they actually do maintenance is a matter of much cynical speculation among locals. In any case, had we not caught the 7:30 run, we would have had to wait until 2:00 pm, thus making it impossible to get to Cow Head for a play that had been booked in May.
We were not surprised in the least when we arrived at the small terminal to see cars and trucks lined up to back onto the ferry. John managed, once again, to steer the vehicle down the ramp and into a designated spot on the lower deck. Doris Tucker, the interesting woman we met last night, was on the ferry, escorting friends to Springdale to catch a bus into St. John's--so we picked up our cheerful conversation from the evening before.
Our journey included quite a long stretch on the TransCanada Highway--thus allowing us to make good time. There is a curious stretch of the highway, perhaps 30 km, where the surface is almost white.
I have no idea what material used in the construction causes it to be white. If the thermometer had not indicated that the outside temperature was +22 degrees, I would have sworn we were driving on sheer ice. Signs on all Newfoundland highways warn drivers about the hazards of moose. One shows a graphic silhouette of a moose facing down a car which has obviously been the loser in a collision--the entire front end is mashed in! We saw one moose today--it stepped onto the highway as if it owned it. Fortunately, we were 500 metres away and easily braked while the beast leisurely crossed the highway.
Rocky Harbour is quite noticeably touristy. There are signs all over the place for bed and breakfasts. Most appear to be ordinary houses where owners must have a spare room or two to rent. We are sure that, whatever the designation from 2 star to 5 star, people staying at the B&Bs will experience Newfoundland hospitality. On the recommendation of a couple who have visited Rocky Harbour, we opted for a hotel for the next two nights, The Ocean View Hotel. Our room has an ocean view and a balcony.
This afternoon we drove north to Green Point, about 10 km. We walked along the Coastal Trail in the Tuckamore Forest. Part of the trail has boardwalk across boggy marshes that parallel the rocky shoreline. At one point, the waves crash against tall rocky cliffs that date from the Cambrian and Ordovician Eras. (Don't be impressed: I did not recognize the type of rocks and graptolites--I read about them in the tourist book.) It is possible to see layers of sediment in the cliffs. It is humbling to stand on the shore--there wasn't a soul about--and feel the immensity of time. It's easy to understand why Gros Morne Park has been designated a UNESCO Heritage Site, both for its beauty and its geological uniqueness.
We had dinner at a restaurant in Cow Head where the play was presented. The view was 5 star (we'd phoned ahead and had a table overlooking the Gulf of St.Lawrence). The food didn't quite match the ambience. The owner must get a cut from Kraft Foods. Every condiment came in little Kraft packages: salad dressing, tartar sauce, vinegar, mustard--you get the idea. It was okay, but did not match what we hoped for.
The play, on the other hand, was terrific. Called With Cruel Times in Between, the six actors borrowed heavily from legendary Newfoundland poet Al Pittman as they told about culture and life in bygone days in this province. Events unravelled in a series of vignettes--some laugh-out-loud funny; others moving and poignant. Satirizing the church and government, as well as the foibles of outport folk, the play opens a window on the past without being dogmatic or preachy. Having talked to Doris Tucker only 24 hours earlier about relocation of outport people, one touching song in particular struck a responsive chord.
For the first time since our arrival a week ago, we experienced rain, on the 25 minute drive back to Rocky Harbour after the play. Tomorrow, we are scheduled for a two-hour boat tour of Western Brook Pond. It is not really a brook--it's a genuine fjord framed by massive cliffs. Environment Canada predicts showers in the morning, but clearing by noon. Let's hope so since our tour begins at 11:00 and there is a 45 minute walk from the car park to the dock where the boat departs.
It's 14-11 for the Riders against Toronto, but because of time difference I don't know if we'll be able to stay awake for the entire game.
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| Doris Tucker from Little Bay Island |
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| Flowers growing along our Coastal Hike (not quite sure what they are!) |
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| Cliffs at Green Point |
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| Abandoned fishing village |
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